Portugal Colonial - London Fashion Week opens with Charli XCX party and second-hand runways

The LFW Spring Summer 2025 schedule, which runs until Tuesday, had been set for weeks when the Swedish fast-fashion giant burst onto the scene announcing a collaboration with the British singer, overshadowing big-name designers.

"Forget the luxury shows... The only ticket anyone cares about is one to the H&M party," London's The Standard newspaper said.

The Times daily labelled the event the "hottest London Fashion Week ticket".

The past few months have been termed "brat girl summer" following the explosive popularity of Charli XCX's latest hyper-pop album "Brat", namechecked everywhere from social media to politics -- and now fashion.

The trend emphasizes an aesthetic and lifestyle inspired by Charli's club album that offers a heavy dose of party-girl energy with undertones of youthful anxiety.

The collaboration is "exciting", said Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council (BFC).

The BFC is celebrating London Fashion Week's 40th anniversary and vying to remain relevant to younger audiences after an exodus of designers over the past two decades.

Over the next week, 72 designers will present collections with LFW mainstays such as JW Anderson, Erdem, Paul Costelloe and Burberry as well as emerging designers.

It also includes shows at BFC's NEWGEN space, which supports up-and-coming creatives.

However some designers like cult favourite Dilara Findikoglu have been absent from successive fashion weeks due to funding constraints.

"I think it is a challenging time for the industry, for the small independents," said the BFC's Rush, citing the pandemic and challenges posed by shipping fees post-Brexit.

- 'Pre-loved' -

There will also be a spotlight on sustainability in the fashion industry, which is one of the world's biggest polluters.

A report by non-profit group Collective Fashion Justice released ahead of fashion week said less than four percent of BFC members have published emission reduction targets.

Brands like H&M, Shein and Zara have in recent years come under fire for their fast-fashion practices -- cheaply mass-producing clothes to keep up with fast-changing trends, often at the cost of environmental and labour protections.

In the build-up to H&M's LFW event -- an attempt to present itself as a more upmarket brand -- the retailer removed all of its previous posts on Instagram before sharing a picture of Charli XCX in a leopard-print coat from its new collection.

One social media user commented on the post comparing the marketing strategy to fast fashion: "get rid of everything you had to buy the new collection".

H&M says it uses recycled materials among other initiatives to reduce its impact on the climate.

In a twist of fate, H&M will be joined on the opening night with two "pre-loved" runways which aim to encourage slow and cyclical fashion.

Charity Oxfam and second-hand online marketplace Vinted have partnered for a show which will showcase handed-down and recycled clothes.

Online auction platform eBay will also put on its first-ever LFW "Endless Runway" catwalk with pre-loved, high-fashion clothes that will be sold on the second-hand website's live shopping platform at the same time as the show.

J.Pereira--PC