Portugal Colonial - Drones, sirens, army posters: How four years of war changed a Russian city

Hiding his face behind a balaclava, the 19-year-old told AFP he would soon leave to fight in the war, vowing "to defend my country" -- which launched a large-scale offensive against its neighbour four years ago.

Around 500 kilometres south of Moscow, Voronezh -- a city of one million people -- is closer to the front line in eastern Ukraine than to the Russian capital.

From frequent Ukrainian retaliatory drone attacks to army recruitment adverts around the city, the conflict has gradually seeped into daily life.

Before heading off to the front, Shaman, his army call sign, was manning the stand of the "Berkut Military-Sports Cossack Club" in the shopping centre.

His goal was "not necessarily" to convince his fellow teenagers to enlist, he told AFP.

"Everyone chooses their own path, according to their interests," he said, calling himself a "patriot".

Over the last four years, the word has become politically charged -- used to hail soldiers and, on the home front, those who loudly support President Vladimir Putin and his offensive.

- 'I have hope' -

Even the look of Voronezh has changed dramatically since February 2022.

On snowy roads leading to the suburbs, anti-aircraft systems peek out from behind camouflage nets.

In the city centre, murals honour soldiers killed on the battlefield.

Countless propaganda posters call for people to enlist with the army, crowding out adverts for a production of "Swan Lake" at the local theatre.

A recruitment centre offers future soldiers a lump sum of 2.5 million roubles ($32,500) if they sign-up -- equivalent to three years of the average regional salary.

The riches on offer have allowed Russia to maintain a manpower advantage over Ukraine despite massive losses.

Last year, 422,000 people enlisted with the military, according to former president and Deputy Security Council Secretary Dmitry Medvedev -- a six percent decrease compared with 2024.

For Lyudmila, 64 and with dark circles under her eyes, only one of those matters: her son, missing in action for the last four months.

"It's very hard. I have hope, because without hope..." Lyudmila said, her eyes filling with tears and unable to finish the sentence.

Was he killed? Captured? She does not know.

- 'Frightening' -

Russia does not say officially how many of its fighters have been killed.

Tracking of local obituaries and family announcements by the BBC and independent Mediazona outlet has identified at least 168,000 Russian soldiers killed since Moscow launched its offensive.

To keep herself occupied, Lyudmila volunteers for an organisation sewing camouflage gear for soldiers.

Even with the small fortune on offer, the prospect of enlisting is a hard "Nyet" for tractor driver Roman, who like everybody AFP spoke to refused to give his surname.

"No, no. Not for any sum," said the 48-year-old.

Nestled in a tent on the frozen river, he wants to "relax", "switch off" and "think about fishing" -- escaping the fear of Ukrainian drone attacks.

"I wake up more often because of the explosions," he said.

"We have sirens and explosions every day. It's frightening of course."

Moscow has been firing daily barrages of missiles and drones at Ukraine for months. The latest wave crippled Kyiv's energy system, leaving hundreds of thousands without heating as temperatures plunged to -20C.

In retaliation, Ukraine's army has been firing drones at Russia, mostly targeting port and energy infrastructure.

Last month, one person in Voronezh was killed in an attack.

- Peace Street -

The Voronezh region, which surrounds the city and borders a part of Ukraine captured by Moscow, is one of the "most frequently" targeted in aerial attacks, Russian ombudswoman Tatyana Moskalkova said last month.

Amid the plethora of army posters across the city, there are some smaller signs that not everybody shares the patriotic pro-war fervour.

After Russia launched its offensive, artist Mikhail affixed little ceramic plaques to buildings and walls with calls for peace.

They resemble pro-peace plaques put up in Soviet times with messages like "Peace" or "Friendship" written on them -- part of the propaganda of the era.

"I wanted to remind people of the narrative of our grandmothers, grandfathers and great-grandparents, who throughout my childhood said that war is terrifying," the 28-year-old, who goes by the nickname Noi, told AFP.

"What we should always strive for is peace."

But with anti-war activism essentially outlawed in Russia, his plaques have been taken down.

Except one -- located on Voronezh's Peace Street.

P.L.Madureira--PC