Portugal Colonial - Kenyan street style snappers reclaim the heart of Nairobi

"You must have that good language to convince them," the 27-year-old street photographer told AFP, explaining how he approaches stylish people walking in the Kenyan capital's central business district (CBD).

Okwomi is among dozens of young snappers who have seized on a government decision in 2022 to lift restrictions on photography in the CBD and promote the creative economy.

Police officers are now keeping an eye out for would-be equipment thieves -- and no longer moving photographers on.

"Street photography has changed the streets," said Okwomi, who gave up a job in a fast-food restaurant and earns about 100 shillings ($0.77) for each photo.

Another photographer, 25-year-old Brian Roberts, said he can make up to $20 on a good Sunday, and in a country where youth unemployment remains stubbornly high, that is a game-changer.

But "the most important thing", he told AFP, is that his street photography launched his career and two years later he also takes pictures of events.

The freedom on the streets is also a marked change from earlier this year, when the neighbourhood echoed to tear gas and screams as thousands of mostly young people marched against the government.

Now, said Okwomi, pausing between another client, "we create memories".

- A change in vibe -

The colourful streets are also teeming with teenage TikTokers, whose cameras capture their hypnotic routines to the bass beats of arbantone, a popular Kenyan music genre.

Nearby, Lermi, who only shared his first name, said he hopes to use his videos to help "push Kenya and African music to the world".

The 19-year-old student said he was "very disappointed" with the government after the protests turned deadly, with at least 60 people killed and scores left missing.

Lermi told AFP he wanted to change the world "through art" instead of going back to street protests.

The CBD "has great features to appear in a music video", enthused artist "Handsy Adonis", 24, surrounded by dancers and the tall multi-coloured buildings.

Even though they didn't have much money, he said, people like him were self-employed and through their photography able to "showcase our talent that we have".

Suddenly a semi-masked group wearing animal onesies disrupts a friendly performance by popping up in the middle of a move, scattering the dancers and eliciting roars of laughter.

Afterwards, members said they were there to "make jokes", with another saying "people need to laugh".

It is a sentiment shared by stylish student Linnet Ouma, 19.

Despite the trauma of the past few months, she felt her generation could make a different kind of change in Nairobi's city centre.

"You just don't have to sit and be idle, you can come, do something, then make people happy with your content."

L.Carrico--PC